Hidden Gems of Croatia: Trogir in Early Winter

Monday, December 5, 2016


Trogir is one of the oldest, most beautiful and most visited cities on the Croatian coast, but I'll let you in on a little secret... If you want to experience this peaceful stone city that has been continuously inhabited for 2300 years (!) without any of the crowds, come in the winter! There are quite a few restaurants and shops that close down but the reward is to see and experience this historic city in it's natural element. We felt like we were the only non-residents there, and actually may have been! Trogir is so small that you can walk the perimeter of the old city in about five minutes. It's a beautiful walk wandering in and out of the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets with bougainvillea spilling over the ancient walls, and we were so happy to find that every single person we interacted with was warm, friendly and grew up with the last person we'd just met.


We've spent each morning slowly drinking coffee in the main square, taking our time just as Trogir's residents do, talking over the ringing of so many church bells. We rented the family apartment from Trogir Stars just one street over from the Cathedral, owned by the kindest family. It conveniently shares a square with Calebotta Restaurant (amazing breakfast and coffee!) and ─Éovani, which serves possibly the best gelato in town. Our kiddos didn't sleep much but our apartment was spotless, was a great price, is in the best location and the owner Vesna played with our kids and invited us over for her homemade apple cake. We couldn't ask for more!


We spent Sunday morning at the cathedral and seemingly with the rest of the small city slowly walking the Riva and talking over coffee (thank you, Kaja!) in one of the many outdoor cafes. Something else I loved was that each time we passed someone, they always smiled and said, "Dobro jutro," or "Dobar dan!" for good morning and good afternoon, or just "hola!" to each other which made me laugh. It's a rare treat to find that on the streets in Zagreb.


We fell in love with quiet, ancient, mediterranean Trogir. The vibrant and friendly community really makes this city shine and I am so thankful we got to experience it without being shoulder to shoulder with tourists.
Come visit Trogir in the late fall or early winter!

7 comments:

  1. It's such a toss up. We are all about low season travel and generally love having the place to ourselves but Trogir was the opposite! We were there just before an early Easter one year but everything was boarded up. There was literally one pizza restaurant open. It was a total ghost town. The rest of the Croatian cities we visited were perfect (in terms of tourists/busyness.) I certainly wouldn't want to do it shoulder to shoulder but we were so happy we weren't staying out there!

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    1. Ahhh, I know exactly what you mean - we traveled a lot last year right before Easter and we experienced the same along the coast and on the islands - almost everything is closed until Easter weekend! We don't mind the quiet though since we live here, but I can imagine if you paid a lot of money to get all the way to Croatia and then have everything closed what a let down that would be. I'm sorry there wasn't more open when you were in Trogir! We loved it so much more than Split!

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  2. this is sooooo beautiful!! it looks so tranquil and serene. and anywhere the kiddos can stretch their legs and breathe fresh air is pretty much the best!! top it with pretty buildings and sweet people and flowers and oh my!!!!

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    1. yes exactly!! and warmer-ish weather which is always a big plus for me!!!

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  3. Oh my goodness -- Gracie in that sweet tutu dress and hat!! Precious. Just add that to my SECOND croatian bucket list for round two ;)
    love you guys!!!
    lanneybear

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    1. Haha yes please!! You have a matter of months to get back here!!

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  4. This was a truly extraordinary challenge and ideally I can go to the following one. It was alot of fun and I truly had a ball.. Inflation

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