Trogir is one of the oldest, most beautiful and most visited cities on the Croatian coast, but I’ll let you in on a little secret… If you want to experience this peaceful stone city that has been continuously inhabited for 2300 years (!) without any of the crowds, come in the winter! There are quite a few restaurants and shops that close down but the reward is to see and experience this historic city in it’s natural element. We felt like we were the only non-residents there, and actually may have been! Trogir is so small that you can walk the perimeter of the old city in about five minutes. It’s a beautiful walk wandering in and out of the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets with bougainvillea spilling over the ancient walls, and we were so happy to find that every single person we interacted with was warm, friendly and grew up with the last person we’d just met.
We’ve spent each morning slowly drinking coffee in the main square, taking our time just as Trogir’s residents do, talking over the ringing of so many church bells. We rented the family apartment from Trogir Stars just one street over from the Cathedral, owned by the kindest family. It conveniently shares a square with Calebotta Restaurant (amazing breakfast and coffee!) and Đovani, which serves possibly the best gelato in town. Our kiddos didn’t sleep much but our apartment was spotless, was a great price, is in the best location and the owner Vesna played with our kids and invited us over for her homemade apple cake. We couldn’t ask for more!
We spent Sunday morning at the cathedral and seemingly with the rest of the small city slowly walking the Riva and talking over coffee (thank you, Kaja!) in one of the many outdoor cafes. Something else I loved was that each time we passed someone, they always smiled and said, “Dobro jutro,” or “Dobar dan!” for good morning and good afternoon, or just “hola!” to each other which made me laugh. It’s a rare treat to find that on the streets in Zagreb.
We fell in love with quiet, ancient, mediterranean Trogir. The vibrant and friendly community really makes this city shine and I am so thankful we got to experience it without being shoulder to shoulder with tourists.
Come visit Trogir in the late fall or early winter!